How to make Glow in the Dark Resin

One of the most popular applications for glow in the dark powder is to make Glow in the Dark Resin. It can then be used it for a multitude of projects such as:

• Filling cracks in wooden tables
• Casting shapes in rubber/silicone moulds
• Creating artwork on canvas
• Filling voids in pretty much anything

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Which resin should I use?

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The clear casting epoxy resins suit most applications of glow resin. Which one will depend on the individual application and effect you are after. This will require a bit of investigation on your behalf.

How Much Powder Will I Need for my Glow Resin?

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How much powder you need is based on how much glow in the dark resin you estimate using. You’ll therefore need to calculate the volume of resin. This can be done in a number of ways:

1. Guess
2. Fill the void with water or sand and measure the volume
3. Do the math

Here are a few calculations that will help with the math.

• Volume of a sphere

V = 4/3pr³

For example, where the radius is 7cm, v = 4/3 x 3.14 x (7cm)³ = 1436cm³

(1cm³ = 1ml)

1436cm³ = 1436ml

TOTAL VOLUME = 1.4litres

• Volume of a cyclinder

V = 3.14r² x h

For example, where the radius is 5cm and the height is 15cm, v = 3.14 x 5² x 15 = 1177.5cm³

1177.5ml

TOTAL VOLUME = 1.2litres

• Volume of a cube or rectangular prism

V = l x w x h

For example, where the length is 5cm, the width is 7cm and the height is 10cm, v = 5 x 7 x 10 = 350cm³

TOTAL VOLUME = 350ml

The ratio is then calculated at around 30grams of powder to 100ml of resin. This can be altered depending on the effect you want.

We wouldn't recommend going less than 10grams/100ml. 

Greater than 50grams/100ml is a waste of powder. 

What particle size?

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Generally speaking, the course powder particle size glows brighter in a glow in the dark resin. But this difference isn't great.

Typically we use the medium particle size, or the fine as it's not as heavy and won't sink as quick.

If you are using a fast curing resin, this shouldn't be a problem. 

If you are using a slow curing resin, use the fine powder and leave the pour in the container for a bit longer. Stir the powder through just before pouring.

This is resin mixed with a little blue green powder and applied to some bark. Just for laughs.

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Preparation of your Glow Resin

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When working with resin you are on a tight time schedule so you need to do the preparation work before the two resin parts are mixed.

• Make sure you have a level surface to work from. Unless you want the resin to set on an angle
• Consider the temperature of the environment you are working in – is it suitable for using with resin? Will the temperature it stay consistent in the 24hrs after the pour?
• Is there enough ventilation? Epoxy resin is fairly safe but you'll still need good ventilation, especially whilst mixing and pouring.
• Will the area be protected from dirt and dust while the resin cures? Consider using some kind of cover if needed.
• Make sure the surface you are applying the glow in the dark resin to is clean, dirt, and moisture free.

Have with you:

• Resin
• Glow Powder
• Scales
• Vessel to mix the resin – not metal
• Wooden tongue depressor or similar flat mixing tool – not metal
• Prepared mould or object – any gaps already sealed
• Blow torch or heat gun
• Rag

Things to remember

A few tips to start with:

• Stick to the instructions. It’s not like a recipe where near enough is usually good enough. This stuff needs to be pretty close to exact.
  • Too little of the hardener and the mix will most likely never set hard.
  • Too much hardener results in too much heat is created leaving you with a mess
  • Mix in the right temperatures. The best temperature is around 20°C
• DO NOT mix using metal implements. The powder will be rendered powerless – much less glow.
• Pour and stir gently. This will help prevent bubbles forming.
• If your void can hold water, it can hold resin. If not you’ll need to tape it up using painters tape or similar
• If you are planning on de-moulding your resin, you’ll need to consider a releasing agent such as petroleum jelly – just a smear. When using silicone moulds you should find it pops straight out though.
• Have a spare mould available in case you have left over resin. There is nothing worse than wasting glow in the dark resin.

Let’s get to it.

1. Prepare as above. Only progress to point 2 and beyond when you are fully set up and ready to pour.
2. Measure out the first part resin. You can do this on the scales by tareing the container to 0. This way you’ll get a weight and volume in ml or litres.
3. Add the glow powder. You can do this by tareing the weight again and adding in the correct ratio of powder in grams (e.g. 30grams for 100ml or 100grams of resin)
4. Mix well with the spatula until the powder is combined.
5. Add the catalyst or hardener to the mix slowly – this will help to avoid bubbles in your glow resin.

6. Gently mix the hardener in. There’ll initially be a swirl texture – this is the hardener. Once this swirl has gone you can stop stirring. Follow the instructions for the particular resin you are using, but don’t be surprised if it takes a good 3 minutes. Don’t forget to run the edge of the spatula around the edge and corners of your vessel to get all the hardener.

7. Now you’re ready to pour. Again, do this slowly so you create the least amount of bubbles possible.

9. Once you’ve completed pouring your glow resin there’ll be bubbles to pop, although there are much less with the powder in the mix. Use a blow torch or heat gun by waving it over the resin.
10. Cover the work making sure it doesn’t interfere with the surface of the resin.
11. Allow it to set and cure as per the instructions for the resin.

For adding resin to larger areas you will need to pour in different sections. Watch this space for our next posting.

Make your own Glow in the Dark Resin!

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If you want to make your own resin, head on over to our store to buy your own Glow in the dark Powder and start creating!

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